Roy Bouldering Area

The small town of Roy is the gateway to one of New Mexico’s best-known bouldering areas. A few miles outside town, Mills Canyon and nearby Mesteño Canyon cut into the surrounding grasslands, exposing large sandstone walls and boulder fields that attract climbers from around the region.

What to Do

Most of the climbing is concentrated in Mills Canyon and Mesteño Canyon within the Kiowa National Grassland. From the Mills Canyon Rim Campground, trails descend into the canyon toward several established bouldering areas. Problems range from relatively approachable climbs to very difficult routes that draw experienced climbers. Wavelength (V15), one of the hardest boulder problems in New Mexico, has helped establish the area as a serious destination for high-level bouldering.

How Much Time to Spend

Plan on at least a few hours if you’re climbing. A half day works well for a shorter session, while serious climbers can easily spend a full day or weekend exploring the different areas.

Getting There

From Roy, take NM-39 north and turn west toward Mills Canyon on Forest Road 600. The road to the rim campground is gravel and manageable in dry conditions. Roads descending farther into the canyon are rougher and can become difficult or impassable after rain. Cell service is limited, and there are few services once you leave Roy, so bring water, food, fuel, and downloaded maps.

The Roy Bouldering Area is a specialized destination, but the remote canyon setting makes it worth exploring for anyone.